How To Plan For Your Dog’s Surgical Operation (4)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Once your dog’s surgery is over and the anesthesia has worn off completely, it is time to take him home. Post-surgical recovery is typically uneventful for most dogs.
Even minor surgery can cause your dog enough pain and weakness for the first few days, forcing him to rest without allowing much movement.
Once you and your dog arrive at home, he should be allowed to rest as long and as quiet as possible. Never force your dog into doing any activity, regardless of what it is. Just going outside to use the bathroom is more than enough movement during the first couple of days for any dog going through post-surgical recovery, unless of course the surgery was very minor.
As far as exercise is concerned and judging when your dog is ready for some physical stimulation, simply look to your dog for the answers. His actions will give you plenty of clues as to what type of movement he is ready for. If your dog seems intent on moving around, allow them to do so, unless your veterinarian gave you specific instructions to do otherwise.
Complications With Healing
One of the most common complications that arise for many dogs during post-surgery healing is the licking and biting of the wound area, which is held together by stitches and bandages. Some dogs will bite at the stitches which can lead to serious infection. For this reason alone, your dog should have someone looking over him to avoid such behavior. Any type of barrier that can block your dog’s teeth and tongue from getting to the wound will help.
Depending upon the location of the injury in which the surgery was provided for, the main goal is to help your dog in prevention of hurting itself. For example, you can wrap a towel around the dog’s abdomen and fasten it with safety pins, slip a small sock onto the wound area (such as the dog’s feet) and tape it up to avoid injury, or you may even invest into an Elizabethan collar to prevent his face and head from bumping into objects.
Your veterinarian will let you know when you should return the dog back for a checkup and/or the removal of his stitches. Such a procedure is quite simple and should only take a few minutes. Once the stitches are removed, there may be some minor inflammation and irritation that goes away in just a few days.
How To Train Your Dog To Be A Guard Dog In 7 Days
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
There are thousands of dogs purchased every year for the sole reason of being hired to act as a family watchdog, but end up without the proper training to do so and eventually put up for sale.
Ask any professional dog trainer, in any city across the globe, and they will all attest to having people bring their watchdog in with the complaint that, We bought him to protect the house but he’s not doing anything like a guard dog is supposed to do…
Many of these lost causes are then destined to be advertised in the local paper with Free To A Good Home as the title of the ad. It’s too bad for these dogs, and the owners as well, that a little bit of education and some willingness to spend a few days in training could not have been afforded thus creating that very dependable watchdog the family wanted to begin with.
Are Watchdogs Even Necessary For The Common Household?
The reasons are many and varied why homeowners feel the need for a degree of protection not afforded by a simple door lock. In most cases, the husband works nights or travels to the extent that the night time hours find the wife and children home alone.
A gun is great, but so are the legal liabilities. Most women admit they could never pull a trigger, and even if they could, a shaking nervous hand would send the bullet into the ceiling. Thus, the canis familiaris, the dog, is called upon to sound the alarm and warn intruders away.
You may have acquired your dog as a result of a Saturday afternoon trip to the humane society, or perhaps by responding to an advertisement in the local newspaper. It was when you brought him home and charged him with the responsibility of protecting his new surroundings that you experienced a general disappointment in his protective prowess.
There are many reasons why the dog you hoped would protect your home and property… will not! One of the reasons could be your dog’s inherit traits. That is, the temperamental, emotional, physical, and mental traits which he inherited from his parents.
Another factor, equally important, is environment. The environmental factor, as a cause for your dog’s problem, may date clear back to the known critical periods of your dog’s life when he was but a puppy.
If he inherited only the best traits from his parents, his environment during the critical period (eighth to sixteenth week) could have modified those traits significantly. Thus, a poor environment as a puppy could be the cause for having crippled your dog’s emotional development to the point where no amount of training will bring out the instincts of territorial protection.
Some dogs have lived such a sheltered life that they are unaware that evil exists. They have never experienced anything bad and their sense of guardianship, present in almost all dogs, has never been required to come to the test.
Your Dog May Have It In Him
In all of life, there are no two beings completely identical. This applies to dogs as well as man. Genetic inheritance dictates this law, and it applies to plant life as well. Your neighbor may have an Airedale that protects his real estate with the zeal and enthusiasm of a Doberman Pinscher. Thus, you may be led to buy an Airedale too, only to suffer embarrassment and disappointment that your Airedale wags his tail and saunters up to anyone who approaches.
No two dogs are exactly alike. With a little prodding your dog’s protective instincts could quite possible be brought out. With a little coaching, the chances are that he can be trained to detect and announce any person approaching the area he serves.
You have no way of knowing what environmental factors may have influenced your dog’s life or his inherited traits, then you have no way of knowing if the protective instincts can be brought out except by trying!
Remember though, if your dog fails to become the alarm dog you want him to be, you can’t blame him. He had no control over the myriad factors that influenced his character as a pup.
All It Takes Is One Week: A Step-By-Step Watchdog Training Plan
One week of selective and careful training could turn that lethargic family pet into a valuable burglar alarm if the protective instincts have not been modified to a great degree.
It’s really quite simple and can provide your dog with the opportunity to really earn his keep. Remember, however, that you’re only teaching him to sound the alarm, not attack with the fury of a trained guard dog.
There are two important keys to success in this type of training:
1) First, the dog must have confidence in his ability to chase an intruder away.
2) Secondly, your dog must know that this is exactly what you want him to do.
This training can be easily accomplished by setting up an intruder-like situation and being ready to praise the dog for any signs of alertness, however slight. To some dogs, just the stiffening of the ears, or a quick look in the direction where the intruder is entering can be considered an initial alert which would warrant praise.
By having the intruder retreat in fright at this alert by the dog, you have set the two necessary keys into motion. The intruder’s quick retreat serves as a necessary tool in the beginning stages of confidence building. Your dog must have confidence in his ability to warn intruders away. Your quick response in praising the dog demonstrates that you are pleased with what he did. Your dog must know what you expect of him.
In transforming a house dog into an alarm dog, these simple steps should be followed for thirty minutes per day for a period of about one week. Some dogs will take longer because their ability to learn is also governed by genetics and environment.
You will, of course, need to enlist the services of a friend whom the dog does not know to act as the intruder. Your intruder must be briefed carefully. A mistake on the part of your intruder failure to retreat at just the right time can cause failure, just as a mistake on your part failure to administer praise at just the right time can also cause failure.
The only other equipment you will need will be a leather 6-foot training leash and a leather collar. Choke-chain type collars are not suitable for alarm dog training.
Drive a deep post into the ground in the middle of your back yard. Your six-foot leather training leash has a hand loop on one end. This hand loop should be looped over the post and the other end attached to the leather collar on your dog.
The size and sturdiness of the post will naturally depend upon the size and weight of your dog. The post must be able to withstand a force at least equal to the weight of your dog.
The entrance of your intruder should duplicate as much as possible, an actual, realistic situation, and therefore, the entire training should be undertaken at night.
The First Night
Hook your dog up to the leash and post, then go sit down and relax on your back porch. Try to find a spot that will give you clear vision of both your dog and the intruder. Get far enough away from your dog so that he doesn’t look for security in you. He must be out there on his own.
After your dog has had a chance to settle down, a pre-arranged signal should summon the intruder to begin making his way into your backyard. His entrance could be over a fence but it’s best for the intruder to enter through a side gate.
To add to the necessary realism to convince your dog that an undesirable is making his way onto your property your intruder should play the part to the hilt. He must act very suspiciously, and equally important, he must act cowardly, inching his way close to the house, through bushes.
He must pretend that he doesn’t see the dog, but yet he must watch the dog carefully so that he can make a cowardly and quick retreat at the first sign of alertness from the dog.
When the dog sees or hears the intruder, the intruder must immediately run away. The fading footsteps should signal the dog owner to go to the dog and reward his alertness with physical and verbal praise. The owner should then go back to his spot on the porch.
After a few minutes have elapsed, the intruder should once again attempt to make a cowardly and suspicious approach into the backyard, retreating quickly when the dog alerts as if the very alert of the dog scared the intruder half to death.
Five such approaches on the first night will do. Excuse your intruder and, after you’re sure he has departed, release the dog with a bit more praise. Be sure to remove the leather collar every time the training session ends.
The type of alert will vary with the breed of dog you’re working with. Most German Shepherds will actually bark at the intruder, as will Doberman Pinschers. Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes have a tendency to scream; not in fright, but in warning.
For the sake of this article, we are assuming that your dog up to this point has done nothing in the way of training. You must then be doubly conscious of any alert, however slight, so that you can get to your dog and praise him as the intruder retreats.
The Second Night
The second night should duplicate the first night, with the intruder intruder cowardly inching his way into your back yard, only to the point where the dog shows the alert. The intruder retreats and the dog is praised. Five such praises should be sufficient for the second night.
The Third Night
The third night differs from the first and second only in the distance covered by the intruder. On the third night, with the dog staked, the intruder will stop at the first sign of an alert from the dog, but will not immediately retreat.
Instead, the cowardly intruder will try to get just a little bit closer, slowly, very slowly. This will put the dog in a position of trying to tell his owner that the same thing is happening as before, except that the intruder is not running away.
The dog will pace relentlessly, moving his gaze quickly from the intruder to the owner and back again. The intruder should listen for the first audible sound from the dog and immediately upon hearing it, whether it be a whine, growl, or bark, retreat quickly.
The first audible sound of course, is exactly what we’re after. The intruder must retreat before the dog’s owner makes his move to praise the dog. Otherwise, the dog may think that the intruder ran away at the approaching steps of the owner.
Five such approaches and retreats should be accomplished on the third night, before removing the leather collar and releasing the dog.
The Fourth Night
On the forth night, the five approaches from the intruder should be from different locations, so that the dog will learn to expect an intruder from any point of entrance onto the premises. Again, the owner should be quick to praise as soon as the intruder has fled.
The Fifth Night
On the fifth night, as the intruder makes his cautious approach, he should not flee too hastily, but rather stand his ground with an air of uncertainty. If the dog is not barking audibly, the intruder should inch even closer, watching out of the corner of his eye for the first sign of aggressiveness from the dog.
By the fifth day, the dog knows that the intruder is a coward, and up to now, seemingly the very presence of the dog was enough to frighten the intruder away. The dog must learn by the fifth day, that he must do something other than just pace or whine for this cowardly intruder to run away.
The first four days have instilled an element of confidence into the dog by virtue of the intruder’s quick retreat. The owner’s praise showed the dog that the owner was pleased. The dog must therefore determine exactly what action will best chase this intruder away and therefore earn him the praise of his owner.
The intruder must never show any signs of bravery, nor exhibit any show of authority over the dog. On the fifth night, the intruder should slowly and cowardly inch his way closer until an audible warning is elicited from the dog.
Then and only then will the intruder retreat in fear. When the intruder runs away, the owner quickly praises the dog. The dog is learning that not only is the intruder afraid of the dog’s mere presence, but that if all else fails, barking, will send the creep fleeing in fright.
Once the dog realizes his powers and ability to send an intruder scurrying this usually occurs on the fifth night the dog will be most anxious to exercise these new powers.
The Sixth & Seventh Night
On the sixth night, the intruder should make a slight sound in some manner, out of sight of the dog, but within hearing range. When the dog’s ears show that he is alerted to the sound, the owner should whisper excitedly from the porch What’s that? What is it?
All five approaches on the sixth and seventh night should be preceded by such pre-warning commands from the owner. This will help teach the dog to be alert at any time the owner feels that such an alert is necessary.
The collar serves as a stimulus as well. Each time it was affixed to the dog, an intruder appeared. By placing the collar on the dog, he now expects an intruder to appear, and will be ever watchful and alert for that appearance.
By the end of the week, your dog should know what is expected of him. Keep in mind that no two dogs are exactly alike. Your duration of training will depend upon your dog’s particular ability. By setting up the actual situation and rewarding your dog for favorable response, you’re on your way to having the watchdog you wanted.
Once trained, you’ll be able to say, We bought him for a watchdog and he really knows his job!
Outdoor Dog Products (Part 1)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Ever wondered how your neighbor can maintain such a clean and healthy yard, even though he’s got two German Shepherds and one Yorkie that loves to urinate and dig all over the place?
The key to maintaining a successful yard and garden without your dogs interfering is to invest into outdoor solutions to keep your yard dog-friendly. Check out some of following product ideas that may be perfectly suited to your needs:
Dog Repair Kit by ENCAP
Keep your natural grass free and clear of damage with the convenient help of the Dog Repair Kit, created by ENCAP. With technology designed to improve the performance of your lawn soil and prevention of wear and tear, the Dog Repair Kit is the perfect solution.
Weighing 1 1/4 pounds, each Dog Repair Kit bag contains everything you need to repair your grass including mulch, seed, and soil conditioner. All you have to do is loosen up a few edges of soil and sprinkle a handful of granules from your Dog Repair Kit on top of the area.
Simply rake over the location and water the lawn as indicated by the seed watering guide that is included with your purchase. This tutorial will let you know when the seeds have received enough water.
ProGreen Synthetic Grass by ProGreen
This synthetic grass product is a perfect alternative to a yard that has patches of real grass scattered from your dog’s digging habit. It is also much safer and visually appealing than filling the area with concrete.
ProGreen synthetic grass allows for plenty of drainage through tiny holes when it comes to rainy weather or dog urine. All liquids drain perfectly through the turf-backing and into a special base leading into the ground. And to help break down pet odors and organic matter created by your dogs, a simple topical solution which fights bacteria can be sprayed over the synthetic grass.
Lawn Rescue For Dogs by Pet Naturals
One major issue that many dog owners have is discoloration of the grass when their dog urinates. It is a common problem and one that can be easily solved with Lawn Rescue For Dogs, by Pet Naturals.
Lawn Rescue For Dogs is a tasty chewable supplement that is designed to balance out the pH of your pet’s urine. The result will be urine that will not create those unsightly discoloration patches on your lawn. The ingredients contain yucca, cranberry, brewer’s yeast, and DL-methionine.
List of Hypoallergenic Dogs
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
While a hypoallergenic dog will not solve all of your allergy issues, you may notice that certain breeds of dog will not cause you as many problems as other breeds. Below is a list of hypoallergenic dogs that you can use when deciding which breed to buy.
Terriers These dogs have short coats and are considered to be single-coated breeds, meaning that they do not have an undercoat. Undercoats are found on animals that have thick fur. The undercoat contains loose fur and dander, which can cause allergy attacks in both humans and other animals.
Originally used for hunting because they are small, fast, and enjoy finding their prey, terriers are now considered pets. They do not grow very large and do not spread allergens around the house like other dog breeds. Terriers should be groomed every few months to prevent allergens from building up on their coat.
Greyhounds There are many varieties of greyhounds that you can buy. While greyhounds are considered fast, they do not like to run long distances and enjoy sitting with their owners for long periods of time. Since greyhounds have short hair and no undercoat, they are a good choice for those with allergies.
Some greyhounds have allergies of their own, however. You will have to monitor the dog once you bring it home to see if it is allergic to anything. Great with children, this dog is a good pet for those who have allergies and who also have a family.
Poodles These curly haired dogs do not have an undercoat, and do not shed. Perfect for those with allergies, the poodle is a friendly dog that enjoys the company of people. While some breeds of poodle are not that friendly to children, other breeds are.
While the poodle is a good pet for those with allergies, it will have health problems as it ages. Arthritis, loss of eye sight, and other issues may occur. These are common with smaller pure bred dogs.
Bichon Frise Even though this breed of hypoallergenic dog has an undercoat, it is very springy and will not hold much dander and hair. These dogs are small and are usually very happy. They will need to be groomed in order to maintain their signature marshmallow look.
These dogs will also have health problems as they age.
If you are considering buying a hypoallergenic dog, you should find a breed that you will enjoy spending time with. Smaller breeds are not for everyone. If you are looking for a dog that you can take on trips, take for long walks, or you just want a larger dog, you may need to take allergy medication or allergy shots.
While these dogs are called hypoallergenic, this does not mean that you wont have allergy issues. If you have very bad allergies, then all animals will cause you to have an allergy attack every once in a while. Depending on the how bad your allergies are will determine the type of dog you should buy.
Obedience Training: Not Just For Show Dogs
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The time is now for the public to understand that obedience training is not just for pure bred show dogs or those dogs used for services like police work, public service, and military missions.
by lapoli
If fact, it is surprising that so many owners of mixed-breed dogs feel that their dog isn’t good enough or acceptable for formal obedience training.
While it is true that many All-Breed Dog Clubs and Specialty-Breed Dog Clubs do discriminate and refuse to allow enrollment of mixed-breed dogs, dog clubs are simply just one place where dogs can receive formal obedience training.
The yellow pages and online search engines can help you find dog training classes in your area. With the exception of some dog clubs, mixed-breed dogs are welcome. And why not? The mixed-breed dog learns just as fast, and just as well as his pedigreed brothers.
Price of training is another area that has stopped so many people. Without actually inquiring, they assume that the price is prohibitive. Such is not the case.
In examining services from Georgia to California, and Maine to Oregon, we were perplexed to see no mention of price in advertisements for obedience training. The very absence of a price tag keeps many people from investigating any further. They are, of course, denying themselves the pleasure of owning an obedient dog.
The simple truth is that, formal obedience training classes are inexpensive. In some places, such training sponsored by city governments is free!
If a person truly loves his family dog, the tuition for formal obedience training must be considered as the soundest investment that could possibly be made. In less than 10 weeks – working with your dog just fifteen minutes a day your family dog will know and respond to words from your language.
He will come to you when called (instead of ignoring you or running in the opposite direction), he will sit when you tell him (instead of jumping all over your guests), and he will walk at your side like a lady or gentleman (instead of pulling you down the sidewalk like a trailer). He will lie down when you tell him and where you tell him, and he will stay where you tell him.
Many people who own watch-dogs are forced to confine them to back rooms when visitors come, simply because the dogs have not received formal obedience training. They fail to realize that a watch-dog confined to a back room is about as effective as a car without a key.
An obedience-trained dog knows the difference between no and okay. Not only can this training elevate the status of your family dog, it also instills in him the soundness of character that you never knew possible. And obedience-trained dog is not just a dog, but a welcome addition to any household.
Lhasa Apso (Non-Sporting Group)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The Lhasa Apso is an elegant yet sassy member of the Non-Sporting Group. The appearance of this dog cannot be mistaken. With its long flowing coat and small stature, the Lhasa Apso makes the perfect companion for individuals that enjoy a small house pet, yet one with the personality and boldness of a guard dog. They weigh from 13 to 15 pounds and stand from 10 to 11 inches.
The temperament of the breed is that of a bold, independent watchdog. Like many smaller types, the Lhasa Apso is as stubborn as it is affectionate, which makes it an excellent watchdog. They enjoy the company of the rest of the family perfect for indoor living. The Apso is moderately friendly towards other pets, less so with other dogs, and absolutely weary of strange people.
A Brief History Of The Lhasa Apso
The Lhasa Apso is an ancient breed with its roots from Tibet. It’s history is mixed in with the Buddhist beliefs that the souls of the Lamas would enter the bodies of these dogs immediately after death, thus creating high respect and reverence for the little canines.
These dogs were also used as dependable watchdogs in the monasteries. They would sound off the alert through barking when visitors approached. This service gave rise to the nickname Abso Seng Key, which means the Bark Lion Sentinel Dog.
When the breed made its way to England they were known as the Lhassa Terrier, even though it was not a terrier in any way, shape or form. The name Lhasa Apso is the breed’s western name, said to have been derived from its native name.
The first Lhasa Apso dogs made their way to the United States sometime during the early 1930s. In 1935, the breed became recognized by the AKC as a member of the Terrier Group, then changed officially to the Non-Sporting Group in 1959.
Upkeep Requirements For The Lhasa Apso
Despite the small size of the Lhasa Apso, this dog needs a moderate amount of daily exercise to keep it happy. These exercise requirements can be met with several brisk walks on the leash or simply running around the living room. Play sessions outdoors are also acceptable so long as the area is safe.
This breed is not meant to live outside. They were originally bred for companionship and should stay that way. Apartment living is best suited for the Lhasa Apso. Grooming requirements consists of a thorough brushing every other day to keep its long coat neat and clean.
Health Concerns
The average lifespan of the Lhasa Apso is between twelve and fourteen years. The only major health concern in the breed is patellar luxation. Minor health issues include distichiasis, entropion, renal cortical hypoplasia, and PRA. Rarely seen is vWD, CHD, sebaceous adenitis, and urinary stones. Veterinarians suggest that the Lhasa Apso dogs get specifically tested for knee and eye problems.
Outdoor Dog Products (Part 2)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Is it possible to allow your dogs to roam free in the yard, yet maintain the integrity of your lawn? You may not think so, but with the right planning and products that are designed for outdoor solutions, you will have the comfort of knowing that your dogs are outside enjoying themselves and your grass will remain intact with it’s fullness and color.
by Rachel
To keep your lawn free from damage and soil, the following products may interest you:
Dog Spot Eliminator by The Organic Farm Store
One of the most annoying aspects of a damaged lawn is the discoloration which results from urine stains left when your dog pees. Dog Spot Eliminator is a product made by The Organic Farm Store that can prevent such occurrences. It works by combating those dead areas on your lawn created by your dog’s urine.
The product contains micro-nutrients that work to facilitate the natural recovery of the ground. You can apply Dog Spot Eliminator on a patch-by-patch basis, or better yet, over the entire lawn. By applying this over the whole yard, future discoloration and dead spots from dog pee will be prevented. Dog Spot Eliminator is said to be 100% safe for all pets when used as recommended.
Triple Pet WasteEaze by Benedent
Another amazing product to hit the shelves is called Triple Pet WasteEaze, made by Benedent. It is a liquid supplement that quickly neutralizes and reduces the odor of your dog’s waste product, which in turn protects your grass from those nasty looking brown spots.
Triple Pet WasteEaze is made up of a mixture of yucca plant extracts and anthium dioxide. According to the manufacturer, this combination helps destroy compounds that causes odor, facilitates nutrient absorption, and decreases the pH levels of your dog’s urine. All you do is add a cap full of the liquid supplement to your dog’s water bowl as often as instructed by the label. You can purchase Triple Pet WasteEaze in 8 oz, 16 oz, or 32 oz bottles.
The Pet Patio Potty by Doggy Solutions
An alternative way of protecting your lawn without the use of supplements or grass repair kits is to invest in the Pet Patio Potty, made by Doggy Solutions. This portable dog litter box is designed to blend in with the look of your lawn or patio. It comes in both indoor and outdoor units.
The outdoor units are designed with high density polyethylene and is water resistant. The box frame has removable trays positioned over the litter so that you can remove your dog’s urine or feces without any mess or hassle. The Pet Patio comes in 4 standard sizes and 3 different model types, perfect to accommodate large and small dogs alike.
Basic Clicker Training Is The Best Training
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Animal training is all about effective communication. The more precise, consistent and accurate that communication is, the quicker the animal learns. And one of the best tools to use is a clicker.
by Michael F
Clickers are used to communicate to your dog, quickly and precisely, that what they did was exactly what you were looking for, and at the exact moment they did it. And it signals to the animal that they are about to be rewarded for what they did.
Clickers come in many shapes and sizes. It is basically an inexpensive toy that makes a cricket-like sound. Most clickers are small matchbox-sized plastic boxes.
How It Works
Initially, a clicker has no value to a dog, so you have to make it mean something. To give value to the clicker, you simply click and give your dog a piece of highly valued food like chicken, cheese, liver treats and so on.
Food is one of several primary reinforcers that dogs respond to and it’s the easiest thing to use in this process. Other primary reinforcers include physical affection, play time, and water. If you click and give your dog a piece of food and repeat this ten to twenty times, the clicker now becomes associated with the food.
This process is called classical conditioning. And the clicker now becomes known as a secondary reinforcer. In the dog’s mind, the click has actually taken on some of the quality of the primary reinforcer, in this case the food.
(For any of you that know of Pavlov, the guy who rang a bell and linked the ding with food, you’ll quickly understand the process.)
When your dog has made the association between the clicker and the food, you can begin to use the clicking sound for training. This is called operant conditioning.
Click Now Means Good Boy!
Using a clicker is essentially the same as saying good boy whenever he does something you want him to. If your dog puts his behind on the floor, for example, and you click the moment that happens, he learns that what he did has earned him a treat.
So now he will more readily repeat that behavior in the future. So the clicker, in essence, captures your dog’s behavior because it quickly identifies it and the dog understands he will be rewarded.
The clicker is quicker and more precise than saying good dog because people have a tendency to remember to click with more consistency and precision than when using verbal praise. People say good dog so often throughout the day, this phrase often has less value than the special clicking sound. And quite frankly, it takes longer to say good dog than it does to click.
Clicker Training 101: Creating Positive Associations
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Another wonderful thing about using a clicker to train your dog is that it can be used as an occasion setter.
Here’s What I Mean:
You know how excited your dog gets whenever she hears the bag of treats rustling? Or when you pick up the leash?
She has made associations with these activities and learned that something good is about to happen. The rustling of the treat bag signals a meal occasion and the leash is associated with going for a walk.
As a result, she really focuses on you in anticipation of what’s about to happen. She will often offer behaviors like sitting or lying down or spinning in circles as if to say, What do you want me to do? Sit? Beg? Jump? Get you a beer?
In other words, your dog is really excited to do what you’re about to ask because you have something she really, really… really wants!
With this in mind, whenever you show your dog a clicker, you flip that same switch in her head that says something good is about to happen. So your dog really looks forward to the occasion of training sessions and becomes intent on paying attention.
Using The Clicker As A Connection
The other nice thing about using a clicker is that it allows you time to get the treat to your dog. As I mentioned earlier, good training is all about the speed of rewarding. The quicker you get the treat to your dog, the more effective your training.
So let’s say you’ve asked your dog to lie down from twenty feet away. As soon as she does, you can immediately click, signaling she did a good job, but then you have several seconds to actually get the food treat to her.
The clicker acts as a connection, signaling the food is coming, but because you marked the behavior with the click, it’s as if you gave the food the instant her behind hit the floor.
Moving On To Life Rewards
Clickers are used to teach your dog a new behavior. When she knows what to do and does it when asked, the clicker is no longer necessary. You can maintain the behavior by using affection like petting and praising your dog. But you can also keep the behavior sharp by using life rewards.
A life reward is anything your dog wants that isn’t food related. For example, if you ask your dog to lie down, the reward is going for a walk. If you ask your dog to sit, the reward is chasing a ball.
Clicker training is all about positive reinforcement, so it’s a terrific way to train your dog and have fun at the same time!
Scenting Ability – The Remarkable Nose Of Your Dog (Part 1)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Whether you own a 160 lb St. Bernard, designed to track down and hunt people, or enjoy the company of an adorable little Chihuahua, every dog has an incredible nose that can pick up the most uncanny of scents.
Your canine friend may not have as good eyesight as you do, but his sense of smell is far superior to any human. It is through his acute ability to pick up on scents that he knows and understands the world around him. Whenever your dog dashes off and escapes outside, he is not wandering off on some sightseeing adventure. Instead, he is roaming on a scenting delight.
And when those country-living hunting dogs head out into the open field, their nose sets a rapid pace with all of his other senses to help direct him on the exact way to go towards hunting down his prey. These dogs are aware of people, things, animals, food, vegetation, literally everything, all through the amazing sense of smell.
How A Dog’s Nose Works
The physical makeup of a dog’s nose is suited specifically for his laser targeted scenting talent. A dog picks up on an odor by drawing in several short breaths into the nasal passage. This odor mixes with the air and comes into contact with a mucous membrane which covers the olfactory nerves. Dogs have a much larger smelling membrane surface than people do.
Every living thing around us gives off molecules of odor. When a dog inhales these molecules, they are dissolved onto the mucous membrane. Once this happens, the scent is ready for the dog’s highly sensitive smelling equipment to take over. There are tiny nerves that relay the message of an odor, which travels to the olfactory nerve, and then signals directly to the brain.
Once the completed message is picked up by the brain, the dog’s scenting ability is so precise in interpreting the odor, that he can distinguish each one from hundreds of other similar type smells. For example, if a stick is marked and touched by a dog’s owner, the trained canine can individually single out this same stick out of hundreds of other sticks.
Dogs also have the ability to remember each scent it comes across and match it to the experience the brain produced. This memory to last a dog’s entire lifetime. A particular odor of a dog picked up could be remembered 8 – 10 years later in a dog’s life.
Lakeland Terrier (Terrier Group)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The Lakeland Terrier is a playful member of the Terrier Group, always looking for entertainment and action. These dogs are busy-bodies, never stopping to investigate their surroundings or finding a good hunt. They are an affectionate breed, loving, and devoted to the family.
Lakeland Terriers also make excellent watchdogs, as most terriers do. It is their nature to be weary of strangers, especially of approaching individuals on their territory. These dogs are also very reserved around other dogs and pets, which might make it difficult for the other animals to coexist in the same household.
A Brief History Of The Lakeland Terrier
The Lakeland Terrier shares ancestry that includes the Fox Terrier, Bedlington Terrier, and the Border Terrier. The original area of origin is England. The breed has been around since the 1700s, with the first Lakeland Terriers used to hunt and kill fox for farmers.
In time, fox hunting became more popular as a sporting event and these terriers were the fashionable choice as competitors. It was the terriers from the Lakeland area that proved to be the most aggressive in the events and of course the most successful. At the time they were referred by different names: Elterwater Terriers, Patterdale Terriers, and Fell Terriers.
In 1921, they were officially named the Lakeland Terrier. The AKC recognized the breed in 1934. Since that time the breed has proven itself to be a prize-winning show dog and a handsome specimen, but not quite as popular as other terriers in the common household.
Upkeep Requirements For The Lakeland Terrier
This is a highly-active breed that needs lots of daily exercise. Lakeland Terriers seem to be on a never-ending adventure, which makes them easily distracted. Training this dog may take some work, but always worth it in the end to the owner that has patience with dog training.
All the Lakeland needs in order to stay happy is to have access to a safe, fenced-in yard during the day. They have tolerance for moderately hot or cool temperatures, but should not live completely outside. Sleeping indoors after a long day of exploring is ideal. Grooming requirements for the breed calls for a good combing about three times weekly. Its coat is wiry so a professional scissoring or stripping is recommended about every three months.
Health Concerns
The average lifespan of the Lakeland Terrier is between twelve and sixteen years. There are no major health concerns that run common in the breed. Minor health issues include distichiasis and lens luxation. Rarely seen is vWD and Legg-Perthes.
Veterinarians suggest that Lakeland Terriers get specifically tested for eye problems.
Labrador Retriever Dog Breed
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The Labrador Retriever is currently listed as the number one registered dog with the AKC. This dog breed is ranked very high by dog enthusiasts on all levels; playfulness, friendliness towards strangers and pets, easy to train, affectionate, and even makes a great watchdog.
This breed was officially recognized by the English Kennel Club back in 1903, and then by the AKC in the year 1917. Amazingly, the Labrador Retriever was voted the most popular dog breed of 1991 and has continued to reign atop the charts even today.
When these dogs are trained they are very amiable and obedient. They are especially wonderful around kids, as they have high tolerance levels towards children and their antics. This dog has its moments of being very calm around the house, yet can become intense and energetic in the blink of an eye when stimulated.
The Labrador Retriever is extremely loyal to its owner and is eager to please. It enjoys learning new tricks and is a wonderful student of obedience training. Swimming, running, and retrieving are all activities that this dog breed enjoys being a part of. Being challenged mentally and physically is desired by the Labrador retriever.
Upkeep And Maintenance
Upkeep must be fairly active on a daily basis. Labrador retrievers must have daily exercise in the form of running and swimming. Retrieving, however, is at the top of the list of fun games that Labs really enjoy, especially through water such as the beach or even a large outdoor swimming pool.
These dogs can either live indoors where it’s warm and cozy, or remain outdoors during all types of weather. Be sure to adhere to common sense safety rules when keeping your lab outside during the hot humid months, or the chilling winter temperatures. However, like most dogs, a Labrador Retriever would prefer to be inside with its family and stable temperatures.
Health Information
The Labrador Retriever has an average lifespan of ten to twelve years in general. This is of course depending upon the health of the animal. Major health concerns which should be looked at are elbow dysplasia, CHD, OCD, patellar luxation, and obesity. Occasionally, some health issues spring up throughout the Labrador Retriever breed such as diabetes, tricuspid valve dysplasia, over-exercise (leading to collapse), distichiasis, and muscular dystrophy.
Late Night Barking Caused By Cats: 5 Ways To Stop It
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
My Chihuahua LOVES to bark, but it is not always that protective watching out for intruders type of bark. Lately it has been the result of a group of pesky cats that seem to roam the neighborhood, and most often at two-in-the-morning!
While this may not be a problem for all of you, those that have small dogs (or even large dogs), that are being instigated by roaming cats just outside the door at night, here is a list of things you can do to get rid of these curious felines, while at the same time helping you get a better night’s sleep, along with your dog and the neighbors!
1) The first thing to do is try to find out where the cats are coming from. Do they belong to one of your neighbors? If this is the case then please be diplomatic. Such run-ins with pets can cause friction between neighbors, even if you are in the right. Simply voice your concern over the fact that the cat is alarming your dog and that it is causing everyone to wake up in the middle of the night.
2) If the cats do not belong to anyone living near by, the next step is to look into a product designed to repel the animals. There are plenty of products on the market created to do the job. Most of them have natural ingredients such as scented oils, pepper, or mustard oil. Some even contain urine from predator animals like the fox or the coyote. How effective they are depend on your up-keep with applying and re-applying the solutions. But they DO work.
3) If you prefer to use a home-made cat deterrent instead of a store-bought product as mentioned above, there are several possibilities. Citrus rinds have been known to work. Cedar chips are another option. Even garlic or vinegar has been used to deter cats. And just a tip to keep one of the cats from dying (if that concerns you) is to avoid using essential oils they are toxic to cats. And for similar reasons cayenne pepper shouldn’t be used.
4) If these annoying cats are not only rubbing your dog the wrong way and causing hours of non-stop barking, but are also making a playground of your garden, consider adding loose gravel to cover over loose dirt. Another effective guard against digging from other animals is to sprinkle crumpled up pieces of aluminum. Cats absolutely detest walking on this type of surface.
5) And the best solution of all is to fence your property with cat fencing on the top. There are such cat fencing products that provide a netting barrier that installs on top of your current fencing structure. It is not the cheapest solution to the problem but it is definitely the most effective one.
Skin Conditions: Demodectic Mange & Sarcoptic Mange
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Demodectic mange is known by several common names including red mange, pustular mange, and puppy mange. The disease is caused by a cigar-shaped mite that lives in the hair follicles of the skin. The presence of this mite in the hair follicle causes local inflammation and disruption of the hair growth cycle. Alopecia (hair loss) develops and the typical signs of the disease become clinically apparent.
Two distinct forms of the disease can occur. Localized demodectic mange occurs commonly in puppies and is characterized by small circular areas of hair loss on the face and front legs.
Generalized demodectic mange can develop in older dogs that do not recover from the localized form of the disease. Hair loss is generalized and the skin may become secondarily infected with bacteria.
Transmission of demodectic mange is thought to occur in young puppies during the first two to three days of life, after exposure to an affected female, carrier females, or other infected dogs. Experimental transmission is difficult to achieve in older puppies. Elimination of carrier females as brood females may be helpful to control this disease in certain kennel situations.
Therapy is directed at control of the mite, control of bacterial infections, and removal of stress conditions from the dog. Research at the present time is exploring the possibility that clinical disease results from allergic reactions induced in the skin by the demodectic mange mite. Many cases will show spontaneous improvement regardless of the therapy used.
Sarcoptic Mange
Sarcoptic mange or canine scabies causes intense itching in the dog. This mange mite burrows into the skin of dogs and causes intense inflammation of the skin. Sarcoptic mange is extremely contagious from dog to dog and is spread by direct contact between the animals.
The parasite is a transitory parasite on humans, causing a red itchy rash, similar to chigger bites. The disease in humans will resolve when the dog is effectively treated.
Clinical signs include intense scratching and hair loss on the elbows, hocks, and ear margins. In severe cases, the entire body may be involved. Diagnosis is made from clinical signs and demonstration of the mite in skin scrapings.
This disease can be cured with proper therapy consisting of weekly dips in lime sulfur solutions, chlorinated hydrocarbons, or organophosphates. Therapy of all infected or exposed dogs should occur at the same time in order to effectively control the disease.
Superhero Dogs & The Nose That Powers Them
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The amazing power of a dog’s ability to pick up on a scent has been demonstrated as a key service to humans by looking at the history of several dog breeds.
For example, the German Shepherd is specifically suited for police work and is one of many type of dogs that breeders have taken a keen interest in developing for their specialties in scent hunting.
Consider also the bird dog. This canine was bred for his keen sense of odors that are airborne and are detected when the dog circles a wide area on the ground, while picking up trace amounts of the scent.
Scent hounds pick up on the scent of their prey and hold onto it once caught until their owner/hunter arrives and assists with the final kill. Such scent hounds include the Otterhound, Basenji, Dachshund, Beagle, and many others.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, the Dachshund dog breed was used to sniff out badger holes in Germany. The dogs’ legs were short and perfectly sized so that it could furrow into the badgers’ hole in order to snatch the critter up and hold onto it until the master would pull out the dog by its tail, thus removing the badger from the Dachshund’s mouth.
Other examples include the African barkless Basenji and its keen sense of smell in trailing small game. The beagle dog breed is known for its skill at picking up the scent of small rabbits.
Otterhound dogs can sniff the odor of otters that are swimming, even when they are under water in a slow-moving stream. The otter’s odor particles rise to the surface of the water and are picked up by the Otterhound. Eskimo dogs can trace the location of a seal swimming underneath the ice.
Saving Lives Through Scent Tracking
Snowy mountains and high altitudes are no match for the ability of the amazing St. Bernard dog breed. Their service goes back many years. These good-natured, impressive-sized dogs initiated their ascent tracking service by sniffing out lost hikers in the deep, icy snows of the 8,000 ft Mons Jovis Pass. Even today, the monks keep their St. Bernard dogs trained and in a constant state of readiness to help a lost skier or hiker.
These dogs work in pairs and use their fantastic noses in order to find the victim. Once a person is located, the dogs will dig away the snow until they reach the person. Then the St. Bernard dogs will lick at the face and arms in order to revive the individual. One of the dogs will immediately start barking in order to lead the rescuers to the location.
Thousands of people have been rescued by these wonderful, warm hearted dogs. Many proponents of the St. Bernard make claims that the animal can smell a human being from as far as 1000 feet away. They also say that if the wind is blowing in favor of the dog, it can pick up a scent from as far away as a mile.
Kuvasz (Working Group)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The Kuvasz is one of the most beautiful members of the working group and equally as fearless in its protection abilities.
It is rated as one of the best guard dogs and most protective watch dogs that a family could own.
Quite loving and gentle with its owners, this dog does well with children
in the house but care must be taken that the kids do not play too rough as a Kuvasz dog may interpret this roughhousing as an attack.
The Kuvasz was specifically used as a guardian since the beginning of traced origin so the dog’s temperament can be quite aggressive towards strange people and other animals.
A Brief History Of The Kuvasz
The exact origin of the Kuvasz is still unclear but researchers consider this dog a Hungarian breed. It is said that the breed is probably rooted from giant-sized dogs in Tibet, and made its way to Hungary by traveling through Turkey.
The name Kuvasz is not Hungarian either, but more likely an altered version of the Turkish kawasz, which means armed guard for the nobility.
Kuvasz dogs date back to the 15th century during a period when they were held in high regards. There was even a period of time when only the nobility could own a Kuvasz.
The breeding additional puppies were carefully monitored and each one documented in detail. The dogs were useful as hunters, guard dogs, and had the strength and courage to ward off animals of all sizes, even as large as bear.
The breed’s quality was further improved by King Matthias I, who maintained a large kennel and carefully bred quality Kuvasz pups. The breed eventually got into the hands of commoners who used them as livestock dogs.
It was during this time that the name of the breed was ironically changed to its current name of Kuvasz, which actually means mongrel.
During the 1900s, the breed’s numbers suffered tremendously due to the two World Wars. It was the German stock that helped continue the base for the breed to survive. Many Kuvasz dogs were imported to the United States during the early 1930s and the AKC officially recognized the dog in 1935
Upkeep Requirements For The Kuvasz
Like all members of the Working Group, the Kuvasz must have an ample amount of daily exercise. These requirements can be met with a few long walks on the leash or runs outside in a large field. This dog is at home in the cold and can live outdoors in cold climates but should sleep inside at night with the rest of the family. Grooming requirements consist of a heavy brushing about twice per week, more when shedding season starts.
Health Concerns
The average lifespan of the Kuvasz is between nine and twelve years. There are two major health problems that run common in the breed – OCD and CHD. Minor issues include hypothyroidism. Rarely seen is HOD and panosteitis. Veterinarians suggest that all Kuvasz dogs get tested for possible thyroid, hip, and elbow problems.
Separate Fact From Fiction When Housetraining Your Dog (1)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Can there actually be too much information available today for the average dog owner to have at their fingertips? Just taking a few minutes to Google Housetraining Dogs I not only found millions of articles, but unfortunately, I also spotted thousands of myths still being published about the subject.
Check out the following popular claims about housetraining your dog and find out whether they are actually true or not:
1) If Your Dog Rolls Over On Her Back & Squirts Pee Then She Needs Housetraining
This is false. A dog that pees while she’s on her back doesn’t have housetraining issues. Instead, she’s extremely polite and/or a little bit scared. This type of behavior is called submissive urination and it occurs when a dog is showing respect or deference to another dog or person.
If your dog greets you in this manner, adjust your body language to be a little less intimidating: Ignore her for a minute or two when you first come home, don’t look directly at her and crouch down on the floor so that you’re at her level when you touch her.
2) Club Soda Is Great For Cleaning Up Your Dog’s Bathroom Accidents
This is also false. Club soda may get rid of the stain from a little puddle or pile, but it won’t get rid of the odor. Unless you remove the odor with an enzymatic cleaner designed especially for this task, your dog almost certainly will return to the scene of her crime and perform an encore.
Don’t use ammonia either. To your dog it will smell like urine, which is an open invitation for him to come back to the spot he anointed before and do it again.
3) It’s Better To Buy An Adult-Sized Crate For Your Puppy
Not true. A crate that is too big will encourage your puppy to sleep at one end and eliminate in the other. Still, buying a crate for each state of your puppy’s growth can be expensive. To save money and prevent in-crate accidents, choose an adult-sized metal crate that comes with a divider. The divider will keep your puppy from using the entire crate and can be adjusted as she grows.
4) If Your Puppy Has An Accident, Your Best Action Is To Clean It Up & NOT Scold Her
TRUE! Scolding or punishing your puppy won’t help her learn the bathroom basics. That’s because she won’t remember that she’s the cause of the little puddle or pile that’s got you so upset. Clean it up without comment, and promise yourself that you’ll keep a closer eye on your dog.
Skin Conditions: Flea Allergy Dermatitis, Hot Spots, & Ringworm
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The most common allergic skin disease in the dog develops when certain dogs become hypersensitive to flea bites. The allergic agent is contained in the saliva or mouth parts of the flea and is injected into the dog when the flea feeds. The disease usually occurs during the warm months and is commonly called summer eczema.
The disease begins near the tail-head of the rump of the dog. The animal will scratch or rub this area intensely, causing the hair to fall out and often ulcerating the skin. In severe cases the hair loss can become more generalized and involve large areas of the body.
Although the disease occurs more commonly in the summer months, many dogs will show signs constantly throughout the year. The flea can complete its life cycle in the home environment and thus can cause constant irritation to hypersensitive dogs.
Therapy is aimed at flea control on the dog, on other pets, and in the dog’s environment. In addition, specific therapy can be instituted to control the signs and affected dogs. Cortisone-type drugs will relieve the symptoms of the allergic reaction. Injections of flea allergy extracts have also been useful in helping certain dogs with their flea allergy.
Hot Spots
Hot spots, known medically as Acute Moist Dermatitis, is a troublesome skin condition in certain longhair breeds of dogs including Saint Bernards, Newfoundlands, Malamutes, Collies, and German Shepherds. Many types of skin irritation can cause the dog to inflict self trauma to the skin. A cycle of itch/scratch, itch/scratch, itch/scratch develops.
Round, moist ulcerated areas are created in the skin by the dog’s licking, chewing, or scratching. Flea bites, flea allergy, and burs in the coat are common causes of hot spots. In certain cases, the underlying cause can never be found.
Therapy is directed at removing the underlying cause, breaking the itch/scratch, itch/scratch cycle, and effectively drying up the ulcerated area. Small hots pots may be treated at home with preparations that are drying and soothing to the skin. Products which contain camphor or menthol have these effects. Vinegar is a mild astringent which also will dry the affected areas. Large areas, however, are best to be treated by your veterinarian.
Ringworm, medically referred to as Dermatomycosis, is a fungus infection of the skin, most commonly found in young animals. Circular or irregular areas of hair loss occur on the face, body, and legs. The skin in affected areas is usually dry and scaly. This disease can be transmitted from animal to animal, from soil to animal, and from animal to man.
Definitive diagnosis is best achieved through culture and identification of the fungal agent. Many chronic diseases that do not readily respond to treatment are mistakenly diagnosed as fungal infections. These mistakes can be avoided by the use of fungal cultures. Therapy is specific and will result in complete remission of the disease. Topical and systemic drugs are used.
Dog Sports – Introducing Your Dog To Canine Sporting Events
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Are you the athletic type that has considered starting a sports activity program that you and your dog can both enjoy together? Would you like to see him jump high into the air and catch a high-speed disc or retrieve a ball thrown out of visibility into a trial-area? Or maybe go through a maze in an obstacle course and watch your buddy come through with tremendous accuracy?
If this interests you, then youll be happy to know that there are several sports activities that you and your canine friend can both participate in. Dog sports such as agility, obedience trials, musical freestyle, canicross, disc dog, field trials, and many others are becoming more and more popular among dog enthusiasts, and for various reasons:
1. It is a great way to exercise your dog and keep him in great shape
2. It provides an excellent opportunity for you and your dog to connect on a different level.
3. It is a great way to meet like-minded dog lovers.
Warning: We strongly encourage that you take your dog to the vet for a complete physical check-up before starting any kind of sport. This is to ensure that he is in healthy shape and not suffering from any type of physical condition that can hinder his performance or cause harm to the animal.
Two Factors To Consider When Picking A Sport
What type of activity or sport does your dog like to do, one that he does really well with? If you already know the answer to this question, then the next step is to just get familiar with the types of dog sports that are out there and pick one that you think best matches your dogs favorite activity.
However, if your dog is not currently engaged in any kind of activity, consider the following factors:
1. His breed. Your dogs genetics play an important part of the type of activity that he may enjoy, as well as his ability to perform that specific activity. Understanding his history and heritage makes it easier for you to find a sport or activity that is most suited for his breed.
Learn more about your breed. Find out what type of job his ancestors did and what they were originally bred to do. For instance, most, if not all dog breeds from the spaniel or retriever family, will do great in water sports and retrieving, although it doesnt mean that water sports and retrieving are the only two things that you should consider.
2. His personality. In addition to his physical abilities, you also need to consider his personality.
Some dogs love nothing more than to run a long distance course or catch a flying ball. These dogs will definitely do well in many types of dog sporting events. Other dogs are a little slow at first, but with right training and motivation, they too can have fun and benefit from participating in canine sports.
Komondor (Working Group)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
The Komondor is one dog breed that is true to its heritage. This dog was bred specifically to guard livestock, particularly sheep, and has been around since the Ancient times.
An independent thinker and a bit on the dominant side, Komondors need owners that are more dominant themselves, as the breed has a tendency to try to dominate the pack. They are overly aggressive towards strange dogs and reserved around strangers.
A Brief History Of The Komondor
The area of origin for the Komondor is Hungary. Although they were probably around long before this period, the first known factual documentation of the Komondor goes back to 1555.
It is said that the Huns brought with them to Hungary a fairly large Russian Owtcharka, which is the beginning bloodline of the breed.
These dogs look very much like the Magyar sheep which were called Racka, because of their mass of curly wool hanging from the coat. This allowed the dogs to mingle in and out of a flock of sheep without dispersing the herd, and in fact, almost being mistaken for one!
The Magyar shepherds held great value in the Komondor dog as they could depend on them to guard sheep. They were so protective of the breed that breeding them with other dogs was forbidden so as not to lose their amazing working ability to guard against marauding animals.
Even during the early part of the 20th century the Komondor was still being used as a trustworthy guard dog. It was 1933 when the first of the breed made its way to the United States. Just four years later it was officially recognized by the AKC in 1937.
Today, however, the breed is not very common throughout the world, even in its area of origin in Hungary. The reason stems from the devastating effects that World War II had, practically wiping the breed out in Europe. After the war was over a few dedicated breeders saved the Komondor. You can find them scattered throughout the globe in small numbers, particularly with owners who still use them to guard sheep.
Upkeep Requirements For The Komondor
Like all members of the Working Group, Komondors need daily exercise which can be met with a few brisk walks on the leash or playtime in the back yard. It’s best to keep this dog away from swimming in water because the coat takes an enormous time to dry and becomes quite messy.
Komondor dogs are not meant to live in hot climates, but rather in areas with cool temperatures. Grooming this breed takes a bit of work. Its cords must be manually separated as often as three to four times per week to keep out mats. The coat also tends to trap dirt easily. Of course the coat can be clipped but doing so would lose the breed’s unique appearance.
Health Concerns
The average live span of the Komondor is between ten and twelve years. Major health concerns that run common in the breed are gastric torsion and CHD. Minor issues include hot spots and otitis externa. Rarely seen is entropion. Veterinarians suggest that the breed get tested for potential hip problems.
Separate Fact From Fiction When Housetraining Your Dog (2)
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Finding credible housetraining information by sifting through thousands of articles published online today can be a daunting task. To help you ignore the myths of properly teaching your dog or puppy to use the bathroom in the appropriate area, take notes of the following tips:
by Tricia
1) Crates Are Cruel & They Do Not Help With Housetraining
This idea is false. A properly used crate isn’t cruel at all and makes the housetraining process much easier. Crates appeal to dogs’ instinctive desire to have a snug, secure den to call their own. Your dog’s desire to refrain from dirtying that den will help her develop the physical control she needs to become reliably housetrained.
2) You Can Consider Your 6-Month-Old Puppy Housetrained If She Hasn’t Had An Accident In 30 Days Or So
This is true. Housetraining takes some time, but you can consider the process complete if your dog is at least 6 months of age and has been free of an accident for at least a month.
Younger dogs (younger than 6 months) don’t have the physical capacity to hold their poop and pee dependably and a dog of any age that keeps having accidents really can’t be considered fully housetrained.
3) Your Dog Will Always Let You Know When She Needs To Go Potty Outdoors
False at least not for a while…
Most dogs take awhile to figure out how to tell their people that they need a bathroom break and some dogs never learn how to get such a message across. But even if your dog doesn’t come and tell you she needs to do the doo, you can watch her for signals that a bathroom event may be imminent. Intense sniffing, pacing and circling all may indicate that a doggie doo is on the way.
4) Dogs Will Pee & Poop Inside Of The House Just To Spite You
While this may seem to be the issue, as it’s hard for some owners to handle housetraining, this claim is also false. Dogs are not vengeful creatures. They eliminate in the house for one of three reasons: They’re sick, they’ve had to wait too long for a bathroom break, or their owners haven’t housetrained them properly.
5) Housetraining Should Wait Until A Puppy Gets Used To Her New Home
False. While many dog training techniques should wait until your pup reaches a certain age, housetraining should start immediately upon the pup arriving at your home. A puppy of any age can start learning proper potty control. Teach her to enjoy her crate; feed her and take her out at regular intervals; and watch her carefully whenever she’s out of her crate. That said, she probably won’t be fully housetrained until she’s 6 months old or so.
Mating: A Crash Course In The Reproductive Cycle Part 3
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
If the future mother is due for vaccinations, have her vaccinated prior to (not during) pregnancy, since vaccines may cause adverse effects on fetal development if given during pregnancy.
by Dennis Hill
Vaccinations before pregnancy accomplish two goals:
(1) They boost the future mother’s immunity.
(2) They provide the temporary immunity puppies need after birth for protection against diseases. (Puppies are not capable of building their own immunity until they are a few weeks old.)
If the mating is successful then pregnancy will follow; like metestrus it lasts two months, taking into account individual variation. Most vets can diagnose pregnancy four weeks after mating; earlier diagnosis is difficult.
One of the best available aids is good records, which tell when dogs are mated, give insights to previous breeding problems, and by their thoroughness, point out potential problems. Without benefit of breeding dates it is easier to determine that a dog is pregnant than to determine that it is not pregnant.
A good balanced diet and vitamin and mineral supplementation, which are vital during pregnancy, becomes much more important during nursing. Health problems related to pregnancy are uncommon in dogs. Although an occasional dog may abort, even this is not common. Most problems of practical concern involve breeding, delivery, and nursing.
Birth of The Puppies
The birth process, called parturition, is conveniently divided into three easily recognized stages. They are simple termed stage 1, stage 2, and stage 3. Stage 1 is the preliminary step to true labor. The female may act to prepare a nest and personality changes may become more evident (which include irritability, nervousness and pacing).
If the female’s body temperature falls too low then this may indicate serious diseases. The rectal temperature, should it fall from the normal range of 101 -102 degrees (F), is a meaningful indicator that birth may take place in the next 24 hours. Another sign of stage 1 is the rupture of the allantoic membrane, or water bag. Upon its rupture, a large volume of fluid is spent, which leaves no doubt that labor is near.
Following is stage 2 and stage 3, which is known as true labor and the nearing of the end of labor. The first puppy should be born within a few hours. If there are no puppies being born after several hours go by then you will need to call your veterinarian. A cesarean may be needed if there is a problem.
Non-chemical flea control for your pets
Submitted by The Cat/Dog Log Blog
Fleas will soon be looking for a home on your cat or dog if they haven’t already. With my dog Abby’s previous skin allergies, I’m cautious of everything she comes in contact with, and that includes chemicals in flea control. I read somewhere that the skin is the largest organ of the body, and you shouldn’t put anything on your skin that isn’t safe to eat, because it absorbs into your system. This applies to our pets as well.
I’ve been using a natural flea control product called Only Natural Pet All in One Flea Remedy for the past 3 years on both of my dogs and it works great. I never see a flea on them or anywhere in our house, and every vet check has shown no fleas as well. It looks very much like standard chemical flea powder, and is rubbed into the dog’s fur. You can also shake it on carpeting, bedding, and furniture. It is odorless and completely safe, even if eaten by the animal. Ingredients are: diatomaceous earth, sage, eucalyptus, yellowdock root, fennel seed, and rosemary leaf.
Here’s how it works: Based on a centuries-old insect remedy used in gardening and other applications, Diatomaceous earth is actually tiny fossilized skeletons of microscopic organisms, and are razor sharp at the microscopic level, but feels like a fine powder to humans and animals. When a flea comes in contact with it, their protective coating is pierced, they dehydrate and die.
The pesticides in standard flea products are made from toxic chemicals. There is evidence that long term use can significantly harm humans and animals. So why take the risk when a natural remedy works just as well.
Two Popular Canine Sports You & Your Athletic Dog Will Love
Submitted by Natural Pet Health Blog
Dog Sports – Two Popular Canine Sports You & Your Athletic Dog Will Love
Getting your dog involved in dog sports requires preparation and knowledge. What you need to do beforehand is get familiar with the type of breed you have, his physical capabilities, and his interests.
Once you have figured out the three factors stated above, youll have an easier time deciding on the best sport to choose for your dog. The sport should be something that you also enjoy, since both you and your dog are going to be in this together. If you have the time, go to different sporting or activity events and just watch the other dogs and owners perform. This is a good way to get a feel for what each sport entails.
If you are lucky then there will be dog sporting events in your area. If the sport of your choice is three hours away from where you live, you may be better off participating in one that is just two blocks down the street. You can always look for other sports or activities later. Many dog owners engage their dogs in more than one activity.
Below is a list of two of the popular sports for dogs and their owners:
Agility: A very popular dog sport that gained recognition by the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the United Kennel Club (UKC). In this activity, the handler or owner has a limited amount of time to direct his dog through an obstacle course that consists of ramps, tunnels, climbs, jumps, and other challenges.
Agility is a fun sport where dogs and owners go through the challenge together as a team. The dogs performance is determined by his speed and accuracy as he performs through the course. Obedience training and the ability to follow instructions is a must, since this activity requires the dog to be off the leash and only relies on the owners body signals and verbal commands to guide him through the course.
Obedience Trials: In this sport, the dog must demonstrate his role as a civilized human companion by accurately performing a predefined set of actions as directed by his owner or handler.
Obedience trials provide a great opportunity for the dog and his owner to work as a team. Dogs and owners are evaluated on precision, accuracy, the owners movement, and the dogs willingness to cooperate and follow directions.
The American Kennel Club obedience competitions have three levels. Beginners level is referred to as Novice, intermediate level is referred to as Open, and advanced level is called Utility. The dog needs to complete the requirements for each level before advancing to the next. Examples of exercises are: Recall (Come), Drop on Recall, Heel, and Sit.
